Food is more than nourishment. It connects us with people and places, and it creates memories.
Certain foods take us to unexpected places.
When I think of figs, I am transported to Charleston, not to a Middle Eastern country known for having a suitable climate for fig production. For some, this might seem an unlikely place to be associated with figs, but that is where I, as a teen, sampled my first fresh fig.
The Mountain State Art and Craft Fair was established in 1963 as part of a state centennial program to preserve West Virginia's traditional crafts and cultural heritage.
I was one of the first apprentices selected to mentor under a master craftsperson. From the time I was in the eighth grade through college, I studied white oak basketry, spinning, weaving and vegetable dying at the fair.
A renowned Charleston weaver, Lucy Quarrier was my fiber instructor. She must have recognized my potential, because she offered additional opportunities for study beyond my fair apprenticeship. On more than one occasion, she invited me to accompany her to Southern Highland Craft Guild meetings and fairs.
Before embarking on our trips, my parents would drive me more than four hours from my hometown of Chester to Charleston, where I would spend the night at Lucy's home - which she shared with her sister, Elizabeth.
At the time, I knew very little about Charleston's early history. Known as the Glenwood Estate on Charleston's West Side, I learned that Lucy's house was built in 1852 and had been inhabited by three of the wealthiest most prominent families in the city - the Laidleys, Summers and Quarriers.
Originally, the home was part of a 366-acre farm that extended from the West Side hills to the Kanawha River. It was one of five adjoining farms that were slave plantations.
The home and its contents were well maintained, and it felt as though I'd stepped back in time. Only the kitchen had been modernized.
Lucy used the preserved slave quarters behind her house as a weaving room. She and her sister were avid gardeners. They had a greenhouse and garden.
When I visited in the spring, I was treated to fresh asparagus. During a fall visit, I was introduced to fresh figs, something I'd never seen or sampled.
Lucy lifted netting covering a small tree behind the house and plucked several figs from the branches. We stood near her weaving cabin and savored the soft, crunchy delicacies.
Now that I live in the Charleston area, I have learned that fig trees were commonly found on historic home sites. One of the nicest specimens still exists at the Hubbard House, home to the West Virginia Humanities Council.
Knowing that figs can survive our climate with a little care, my husband and I have established a small fig orchard.
Our first tree, a Brown Turkey Fig, was a cutting from the historic Williamsburg, Virginia garden. Since then, we've added several other varieties. We learned from experience, fig trees planted near south-facing walls would benefit from radiant heat.
Fig trees are relatively problem-free and don't require a lot of maintenance. Pests and diseases are not too common. Birds cause the greatest damage to figs. As soon as they begin to ripen, the trees should be covered with netting. Figs are drought-tolerant and require only a small amount of fertilizer.
In this area, it is wise to protect fig trees from harsh winter damage. In late fall, the branches should be tied together with a cage of chicken wire placed around them. The cage is then filled with straw or leaves to provide insulation. Some growers bend the limbs to the ground, topping the plants with mulch.
When West Virginia experiences very harsh winters, fig trees suffer some winter dieback. Even some hardy varieties like Chicago Hardy and Brown Turkey will often freeze to the ground but still produce fruit. Usually the ends of branches will succumb to the cold temperatures and will have to be pruned.
Late spring is the ideal time to prune figs because sprouts will regrow from tissue that didn't die during the winter months. Figs do not produce blossoms on their branches. Instead, many tiny flowers inside the fruit produce the little seeds that give figs their texture.
Fig season will arrive soon in West Virginia - a time when I enjoy the sun-ripened fruit and the sweet memories of my friend Lucy.
Susan Maslowski founded and operates the Mud River Pottery studio in Milton, where she has created utilitarian ware for nearly 40 years. She sells produce at the Putnam Farmers Market, serves on the boards of the West Virginia Farmers Market Association and The Wild Ramp, and is an advocate for local foods and farmers. She also writes the Farmer's Table cooking column for the Gazette-Mail's Metro section. Susan can be reached by email at
Fig Salami Pizza
1 (12-inch) unbaked pizza crust
½-1 cup grated fontina cheese
3 fresh figs, sliced
4 slices salami, cut into strips
½ tablespoon rosemary, chopped
½ cup mozzarella cheese
salt and black pepper to taste
Spray cookie sheet lightly with olive oil.
Place pizza dough on cookie sheet.
Top with fontina, figs, salami and rosemary.
Sprinkle mozzarella on top.
Bake for 15 minutes in a 450-degree oven.
Remove from oven when crust becomes brown and cheese is melted and beginning to brown.
Season with salt and pepper.