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WV Culinary Team: Take rhubarb beyond the pie

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By By Susan Maslowski WV Culinary Team

Rhubarb is a seasonal herbaceous perennial vegetable that grows from rhizomes. It is one of the first plants to emerge in spring. It belongs to the same family as buckwheat and sorrel.

The earliest record of rhubarb dates to 2700 B.C. in China, where it was used for medicinal purposes. It was imported in Rome and Greece in the first century to cure inflammation and constipation.

Rhubarb was introduced to Europe in the 14th century. It was an expensive commodity due to the cost of transportation.

Used as a drug, it was three times more expensive than opium and several times more expensive than many spices, such as cinnamon and saffron. It wasn't until the 16th century rhubarb was considered a food item.

Ben Franklin had seeds sent to the American Quakers in the late 1700s. Russians took rhubarb to Alaska in the 1800s because they thought it would protect people from scurvy.

Rhubarb remains a common hardy Appalachian garden perennial, sometimes grown inside an old tire. It prefers fertile soil in a partially shaded area and requires cool temperatures for dormancy.

Stalks can vary from bright red to light green in color. Red stalks are more appealing to the consumer, but green heirloom rhubarb will provide a higher yield in this area.

In the spring, rhubarb will often send up a large stalk with a flowering seedpod on top. The pods are common on mature plants that are 3 or more years old.

The pod should be removed to ensure a better yield. Removal prevents the plant from devoting its energy to seed production. Healthy rhubarb plants can live for more than 20 years in optimal conditions.

Only the stalks are edible. The leaves contain high levels of oxalic acid, a nephrotoxic and corrosive acid. They are also believed to contain an unidentified toxin thought to be anthraquinone glycosides. Cooking the leaves with soda makes them even more poisonous because that induces soluble oxalates. (A number of people were poisoned during World War I after ingesting the leaves, which were a recommended food source.)

Rhubarb is quite tart and acidic, sometimes compared to sour green apples. Despite being called the pie plant, rhubarb has a very low sugar content. Some type of sweetener is usually added to rhubarb to make it more palatable, although childhood friends tell tales of breaking off stalks and eating them raw dipped in salt or sugar.

Old timers used rhubarb two ways - stewed or baked in a pie. But rhubarb is quite versatile and can be used in drinks, preserves and savory dishes.

Like its taste, rhubarb has an interesting scent, which has been included in fragrances for both men and women. One of the first fragrances made with rhubarb was Burberry Bit Red. Rhubarb is combined with ginger and roses for a fruity, spicy, floral scent.

CK One Summer 2011 has notes of rhubarb, citrus, apricots and melons for a fresh fruity aroma. Other fragrances accentuated with rhubarb are Ricci Ricci, Spiced Green Tea Elizabeth Arden, Apparition Homme, 51.3. N Alfred Dunhill and Casual Men s.Oliver.

One spritz of a fragrance containing rhubarb notes may inspire you to visit the farmers market, where you can "stalk up" on this seasonal vegetable.

Susan Maslowski founded and operates the Mud River Pottery studio in Milton, where she has created utilitarian ware for nearly 40 years. She sells produce at the Putnam Farmers Market, serves on the board of the West Virginia Farmers Market Association and The Wild Ramp, and is an advocate for local foods and farmers. She also writes the Farmer's Table cooking column for the Gazette-Mail's Metro section. Susan can be reached by email at mudriverpottery@aol.com.

3 cups rhubarb, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 cups blueberries, raspberries or strawberries

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 cup sugar

4 tablespoons cornstarch

1 ½ cups flour

1 ½ cups quick-cooking oats

1 cup brown sugar

¾ cups butter, softened

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine rhubarb, blueberries and lemon juice in a large saucepan and cook over medium heat until rhubarb is softened. No additional liquid is needed.

Combine sugar and cornstarch in a small bowl.

Mix well to break up any lumps.

Set aside.

Combine flour, oats, brown sugar, butter, baking soda and slat together in a bowl until mixture is crumbly.

Reserve 1 ½ cups of crust to be used as topping.

Grease a 13-inch-by-9-inch pan with cooking spray.

Press remaining crust into pan in an even layer.

Mix in sugar/cornstarch mixture when rhubarb and blueberries are softened. Continue to stir until thickened.

Pour over crust.

Top with reserved crust mixture.

Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.

¾ cup vegetable oil

1 ½ cups brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 ½ cups flour

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup buttermilk (or add 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup milk)

1 egg

2 ½ cups chopped rhubarb

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup chopped pecans or walnuts

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Mix oil, egg and brown sugar, then add milk, salt, baking soda, flour, vanilla and cinnamon.

Fold in rhubarb and nuts.

Divide mixture into 2 9-inch-by-5-inch loaf pans.

Bake for an hour or until done.

Use this syrup on ice cream or to spike a traditional gin and tonic. Create a refreshing drink by combining 3 tablespoons of syrup and 1 cup of club soda.

4 cups rhubarb, cut into ½-inch slices

1 cup sugar

¼ cup orange juice

¾ cups water

¼ teaspoon rose water

dash of salt

cheesecloth

Combine rhubarb, sugar and orange juice in a large stainless steel or enameled pan.

Let stand for about 30 minutes.

Add orange juice and water.

Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until rhubarb is soft enough to crush with a spoon.

Line a strainer with dampened cheesecloth and place strainer over a bowl.

Pour rhubarb mixture into the strainer and allow to drip for 30 minutes. Do not press mixture.

Discard rhubarb solids or save for another use. (Rhubarb butter: Process the solids in a food processor until smooth. Sweeten with honey to taste. Serve on hot biscuits or stir into yogurt. Refrigerate leftovers.)

Place rhubarb liquid in a pan and return to the stove.

Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat.

Simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes or until syrup coats the back of a metal spoon. (The mixture will register about 220 degrees on a candy thermometer.)

Remove from heat and cool completely.

Stir in rose water.

Pour syrup into sterilized jar or bottle with a lid. For best flavor, cover and refrigerate for about 5 days.

Use within 3 weeks.


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